Local Seville – My Favorite Non-Touristy Attractions
For a modest-sized city, Seville is overflowing with attractions – and I include the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the same category as the local tapas bars. Therefore, it would be an error to consider a trip to Seville complete as soon as you’ve seen the cathedral and palace, as you would be missing out on the majority of its charm, which is found down its tiny streets and in its hidden corners.
A true local Seville experience includes the off-the-beaten-path sites. It’s a cliché, but it’s true - this city is full of magic, and it would be a mistake not to seek it out. Here are some of the places in Seville that took my breath away and had me returning to them again and again, but remember – part of the experience will be discovering new places for yourself. I promise there is no shortage of them.
Museums
There are two museums in Seville that really caught my attention, and they couldn’t be more different. One a former convent and the other a former monastery, they truly reflect the fabric of the city with their unusual charm.
Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts) is full of paintings that frankly could be considered boring, but this quiet little museum really has a presence. Tucked away amongst sleepy trees in a quiet area of the city center, you encounter the opulence of some of the most important Spanish paintings in the country as soon as you step inside. Its modest size contradicts the magnitude of what is held within its walls, but as someone who has limited appreciation for Baroque art, it’s really the romance of the building that captivates me.
You have to wander across the river to reach Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo (Andalucian Museum of Contemporary Art). As you approach this quiet, tucked away space, you encounter strikingly modern sculptures, as well as towering brick kilns from when it was a ceramics factory in the 19th century. Without being prompted, visitors respect the peaceful, contemplative atmosphere of the museum and its surroundings, so a trip here feels almost spiritual. The rotating exhibitions are powerful and always translated into English, allowing every visit to feel different, but consistently moving.
Markets
The pulse of a European city can always be felt in its markets, and Seville is no exception. Two of my favourite local spots are in the ‘hippie’ Alameda district, which is popular amongst locals but lesser known to tourists.
Wander up the snaking, cobbled street of Feria on a Thursday and you will come across rowdy Sevillanos hawking every type of bric-a-brac imaginable. Jeuves, Feria’s Thursday flea market, feels like a step back in time, as the street becomes clogged with flamenco dresses, old books, antique photos, and toys. I walked through this market every Thursday on my way to work, and it always felt like a true cultural experience.
Up the road and directly in front of my old apartment is Mercado de Feria. Overlooked by a 13th century church, this is one of the oldest markets in the city, offering an array of flowers and fresh produce. However, what locals really come for is the tapas, especially the fish tapas in La Cantina. A great hidden gem for enjoying a beer is La Taberna Errante, which is a local hotspot where I always felt welcome, despite the owner speaking very limited English.
Bars and Restaurants
The most important part of the local Seville experience is, of course, the beers and tapas. The trick is to seek out the tiny places that are full of Sevillanos, especially late at night. My favorite spots range from traditional to modern and stand out as places that combine phenomenal food with local atmosphere.
For a really special night, navigate the backstreets of the Macarena district to find conTenedor. This trendy restaurant is relaxed and comfortable but has a hint of posh, as their blackboard menu always features 15 interchanging seasonal dishes. Despite being slightly pricier than other restaurants, it is by no means expensive considering the quality of the dishes.
Another favorite is Arte y Sabor in the lively Alameda de Hércules plaza. The Moroccan-inspired tapas is fresh and beautifully-presented, and you can sit outside and watch the hustle and bustle of the area as you eat. Their beetroot salmorejo stands out amongst their many vegetarian-friendly dishes.
The local Seville experience is beautiful and romantic, but it is also quirky and gritty. In between visiting its most acclaimed attractions, take the time to seek out the alternative spots that will really give you a sense of what it’s like to be Sevillano.
To read about the best things to do in Seville, click here.